Sparkling Wines of Hungary Part 5 – Dubicz and Babarczi
Gyöngyös Wine Palace
During my August 2022 trip to Hungary, I visited two women-led wineries in different regions – Dubicz Winery and Vineyard in Mátra (a region where grape growing dates back to Roman times) – and Babarczi Vineyard and Winery in Pannonhalma. Both focus on primarily bright, vibrant white wines that are very easy to drink (perhaps too easy!).
Bernadett Dunai and Ágnes Dunai at Dubicz Vineyard and Winery
Located in the Gyöngyös Wine Palace that dates back to 1906, Dubicz was founded in 2003 by owners Ágnes Dunai and her daughter, Bernadett Dunai. The mother-daughter team have made it their mission to farm their own vineyards and modernize winemaking with state-of-the-art technology, while also preserving the history of this great cellar. Grape varieties include Muscat Ottonel, Olaszrizling, Irsai Olivér, Hárslevelű, Tramini, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc – plus Kékfrankos (red and rosé) and Cabernet Franc.
Zsuzsanna (Zsuzsi) Babarczi at Babarczi Vineyard and Winery
Babarczi – founded in 1980 when Ezerfürtű and Cserszegi Fűszeres were planted at the family home in Győrújbarát – is led by second generation Zsuzsanna (Zsuzsi) Babarczi, daughter of founder László Babarczi. The family now has 65 hectares (161 acres) of vineyards planted to varieties like Olaszrizling, Müller-Thurgau, Irsai Olivér, Tramini, Cserszegi Fűszeres, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay – plus Kékfrankos (red and rosé), Merlot, and Cabernet Franc.
What they have in common is their unfettered approach to sparkling – they’re both making it fun and approachable for all.
Dubicz decided to make sparkling as a welcome drink. “It instantly became so popular, we started to sell elsewhere,” said Bernadett Dunai. “We make it using grapes that we know will give us the best taste we seek – fruity and aromatic.”
Dubicz Zsizsi Frizzante
Dubicz Zsizsi Frizzante 2021– named after a late family member and also onomatopoetic – it sounds like the wine’s delicate, fizzy bubbles! – is a semi-dry, carbonated blend of Irsai Olivér and Muscat Lunelből (Muscat de Lunel) that is fresh and fruity with a hint of sweet – indeed the perfect starter wine that will also brighten up seafood and shellfish dishes. It is also an Újbor és sajtfesztivál 2021 Gold Medal winner.
Babarczi wanted to expand their wine offerings to include sparkling. “The easy-drinking style is very popular now in Hungary,” said Zsuzsi Babarczi. “We make it by adding carbon dioxide. We had the technology and nobody had it in our wine region.”
Babarczi Buborczi – photo courtesy of Babarczi Vinyeard and Winery
Babarczi Buborczi 2021– whose name is the combination of buborék (bubbles) and Babarczi – is a carbonated blend of Cserszegi Fűszeres, Irsai Olivér, and Tramini. The result is a crisp, mouthwatering and aromatic wine that you will be hard pressed to stop sipping. “It is dominated by Irsai, which is very fragrant and aromatic. Cserszegi is strong in acidity, but also aromatic. Fűszeres means spicy. Tramini gives it body,” shared Babarczi. “Fine bubbles caress the palate, while its fragrant fruit flavors and lively acidity make this wine the refreshing drink of the summer.”
The lineup of white wines at Babarczi Vinyeard and Winery
*This is the fifth of a series focusing on Hungarian sparkling wines.
